статья в журнале

En

Physical Oceanography
eSSN:1573-160

2024

KEQHHH

Purpose. The work is aimed at analyzing variability of the ratio between trough and crest of the sea surface waves, as well as the relationship of this ratio with the skewness of sea surface elevations. Methods and results. The analysis is based on the wave measurements performed from the stationary oceanographic platform located near the Southern Coast of Crimea in the Black Sea. The depth at the place where the platform is installed is about 30 m. The analyzed data array totals 17,083 twentyminute measurement sessions. The freak waves were identified by the abnormality index AI equal to the ratio between the maximum wave height per session and the significant wave height. The freak waves with index AI > 2 were observed in 562 measurement sessions. This corresponds to a probability of their occurrence equal to 3.3%. The AI values range from 1.16 to 2.79. The ratio between the trough Th of the highest wave and its crest Cr is in the range 0.37 < Th/Cr < 1.47, at that the average value is 0.79...

SEA SURFACE, FREAK WAVE, ABNORMALITY INDEX, SKEWNESS, BLACK SEA

2024-04-18 22:29:35