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Springer Geology

ISSN:21979545

2022

10.1007/978-3-030-85851-3_1

Second-order nonlinear models are currently one of the main tools for studying and forecasting sea waves. The models will include bound components resulting from the interaction of free waves. Like any mathematical model, they are created for certain conditions. The widespread use of such models requires their verification. The criterion for correctness in this work is the correspondence between the measured and calculated values of the asymmetry and kurtosis coefficients. The analysis uses data from direct measurements of sea waves. The measurements were carried out on the Black Sea, on a stationary oceanographic platform of the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences. It is shown that nonlinear second-order models describe well the average tendencies of changes in the coefficients of skewness and kurtosis with a change in the steepness of the wave. At the same time, the values of the coefficients of asymmetry and kurtosis vary widely with a fixed value of steepness. Steepness is not the only parameter that determines the deviations of the surface elevation distributions from the Gaussian distribution. The considered class of nonlinear wave models does not fully describe the variety of real situations that arise in the sea, which imposes restrictions on their use in engineering calculations. © 2022, The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG

Nonlinear random wave, Sea surface, Second-order random model, Statistical moments

2022-02-15 14:48:25